Since this is a common failure point is there a better way to inspect the wires there without pulling panels, or worse, the doors? Test the window for operation. Check for operation of the window with the engine on and off, and with the key in different positions. Thank you all very much! Then I pulled apart the boot in the driver's side door hinge. Special thanks to The Plow Guys for keeping The Cr Doctor equipped with all the latest and greatest tools to get the job done! Taking off the door panels isn't that difficult. I have pulled back the boots on both doors but can't really see much, nothing obvious. Check the fuses, and for 12v at the points. Check your manual, its a fuse that's under the steering column.
Let us know what you find out. Does anyone know if there's another fuse anywhere else maybe in the interior fuse block? The fuses seem to be intact. This fuse controls the things that stay on after you remove the key such as your radio, windows, interior lights etc. I'm really hoping it's just a bad master switch and not a hidden wiring problem or bad motor. Back to the 10 mm bolt.
If you need to replace a blown fuse in your Explorer, make sure you replace it with one that has the same amperage as the blown fuse. Also uou should check the plug into the main window button console in your drivers door. It was a broken ground wire black. I put it all together and held my breath. Need help guys Click to expand. I made this video just for you.
Good luck remember rated this help. I cant remember what fuse it was but 17 rings a bell. Soldered wire back together, problem solved! Troubleshooting most Ford electric windows will take the average weekend mechanic about an hour. Check the fuses, and for 12v at the points. I took the bulb out and all of a sudden the radio and windows stopped working completely. It was an intermittent problem that seemed to get worse over time. If somone can relay the basic steps to test at the master switch and at the rear door harness with a multimeter I would greatly appreciate it.
Watch this simple vido for the fix. Check out The plow Guys here: Need a great interior trim tool kit? Repair this by removing the door panel turn the armrest bolts and door handle screws counterclockwise, then disengage the pop rivets and removing the motor by unplugging it along with the mount bolts. I have pulled back the boots for the front door and the back door and didn't see any obvious breaks. Replace the motor by pressing it into the window regulator gears, then securing the mount bolts and reconnecting it to the harness. Yea, it's tough trying to find the broken wires. For now, touching the broken wires allows me to close the window and keep the rain out.
The black cylinder will eventually be loose and you'll be able to pull the cylinder apart. Remember rated this help, good luck. Anyone have advice on removing bulb or just fuse? After reading on here about fuse , amp 15, replaced it and everything is back to normal now, besides having taken the bulb out on my mirror, which isn't a big deal at all. Replace the entire window regulator if the hinges and internals cannot be repaired. Any pointers would be much appreciated. Check the fuses, and for 12v at the points.
Do you know how often you use your window? All other windows work fine. I replacd side mirror a cxouple months ago and outside light always stayed on. Check the fuses for burned out filaments by pulling the appropriate fuse and viewing it. Unplug the switch assembly, replace it with a new unit and press it back into the door panel. On top of the black cylinder -- the one about the size of a soda can is a removable rubber tab about the size of a dime.
I don't know how ckt 316 is routed. I'd like to make sure it is the master switch before I spend the money for a replacement. I've looked on here over the past few years for various issues, about time i signed up! Look in your Owners Guide for fuses for that relay. I've swaped the rear door switches and still not working so door switch isn't the problem. Some Fords are notorious for having accessory issues related to the ignition switch. Mine shows fuse 6 60a with an additional 30a circuit breaker in location 62 in the junction box under the hood, and fuse 17 15a in the junction box under the dash.
The little piece of plastic around the door handle pops out when pushed towards the front of the vehicle. This small puller is a simple pair of clips that grab the edges of a blade-style fuse. The odd thing is that when I hit the menu button on the radio, the clock will display. A friend suggested measuring amps of the motor in line with the circuit breaker or fuse for the motor to determine if there is an unusual load on the motor. These motors can wear out, the fuses can blow, or other electrical problems could occur that can prevent the window from moving properly. But cant find a visible short.