The remote start worked fine, but when I opened a door the alarm goes off whether it is running or not. The fob inserts pointy end first with the key ring sticking into the console box where you can see it. I had the key in my pocket, but I went to start the engine and it said no key detected. I have the keys in my pocket, unlock the door using the handle sensor, get it, push down the brake, press the engine start button. I'm hoping Ford is working on a solution, as it can get irritating.
This has happened twice already and I've only had the truck 3 months. One time I had my spare key in my gym bag. I kept trying over and over and then finally after 15 min. Without warning vehicle lost engine power and lost power steering in the middle of the interstate highway. Took the fob out of my pocket and placed it on the console, no luck. I tried several times and it failed, remote start worked fine.
Go get your owner's manual and read it. Ok, this happened to me last night. So being the owner of a 2011 Explorer, I have a great place to go now to address some of my concerns. It's not unusual for a Ford owner to have a key cut, try to use the key, and find that while the key opens the door and unlocks the ignition, the car does not start. Does anyone know what might be the problem? I now put the key in a separate pocket, and it has not happened again. I thought I was going to have to be towed that distance.
If the key doesn't have a computer chip - or has a computer chip with a code that the computer doesn't know - the vehicle will not start. After sitting overnight, vehicle started and ran without issue. I would have to think even with other interference which is all around, if the key is in the car, it should be close enough to be picked up by whatever receiver is in the car. Good Luck Have browsed the site a bit before, however I just wanted to check in and say thank you for the information at the bottom of this post. The contact took the vehicle to a dealer where it was diagnosed that the throttle body malfunctioned. I was trying to leave to go to work after I had already remotely started my car inside the house.
Note: The indicator light on the start button will illuminate when the vehicle is in on mode and when the engine is started. That was the only thing I did that was out of the ordinary. This chip has a specific and unique code that the vehicle is programmed to identify and accept. I haven't had such vague instructions since my Honda days. Since I removed the additional keys and fob, the detection issue stopped, except for one place, a parking lot that is apparently over or next to an underground pipeline, according to signs near it as well as being in the approach of a Lockheed landing strip.
Facing out to the left, out of the car to the right, or out through the top of the open console? Looking through your threads, found a lot of helpful tips. The irony is that the vehicle was in the same local Ford service shop eight days prior to this incident to address a recall and for a 30k miles maintenance check. I'm quite sure it isn't the fob battery since it worked again later on. If it began just after you purchased the vehicle it shouldn't be the fob battery although some 2011 owners are now beginning to replace the battery in the fob. I tried using the remote-start key combination, and that did start the engine. With this small test you should come to the conclusion if there is a problem with the key card or the card reader.
Edited March 20 by Joseph1137 Need to add the process to my post. Has anyone else gotten this little message before for no reason? Yes, only thing we could chase. Tried the second fob, no luck. A friend of mine just bought a used 2003 Explorer and was missing a lot of the information that we needed in that it was lacking the users manual. I was wondering if it would be possible to program a new untouched fob the way that is mentioned above? One instance, the car wouldn't start at all to the point I had to call roadside assistance, who took me through steps but eventually sent a tow truck and the driver figured out that I just needed to put the key fob in the slot under the cup holder and the car would start. You can program your own Integrated Keyhead Transmitters to your vehicle.
This allows the system to recycle. Vehicle owners and stores that offer key cutting often don't realize this system exists, so they don't understand what's needed to make a replacement key functional. If you got out and then back in again it may have worked the second time. If you have any of those heaver metal keys that you need to keep with your car key, maybe try replacing them with lighter aluminum keys. It's the same orientation in the two images. Engine would only run for a few seconds, then died. Mar 31, 2018 Driving 4.
So being the owner of a 2011 Explorer, I have a great place to go now to address some of my concerns. May be as simple as bum keyfob battery or loose connection in there somewhere, but yea the emergency slot should keep you from being stranded. Fails to illuminate, remains on or continues flash after, engine is started, contact your authorized dealer service, learning about your new vehicle refer, guide was accurate at time duplication. . Usually, taking the key out of range of the car and then back into range solves the problem. I tried different batteries for the key fob too, but no clue why except maybe a bad key fob like the diags stated. I thought I was going to have to be towed that distance.