Before the bed is set in place, we slid the new, shorter brake line between the rails and snugged up the fittings. Plus, the advantages of using Classic Industries sheet metal is no rust repair which means less body work that will save you so major time and a ton of money. Another set of pre-cut, etched lines mark the portion to be removed. Anyways Im making room in my garage and it dawned on me I need to be sure how much room I have for this truck in there. Most of the conversions I've seen cut the bed sides and floor in two places and weld back together to preserve the factory edges or to prevent taking the entire bed apart. Double that for a runner in decent shape.
After we prepped the seam to accept the wire, we tacked the seam together first followed by a pass over the tacks to ensure a strong seam. And who knows, that clapped out farm truck down the road might just be the best option for your next classic truck project. So I started making plans to switch the rear end out with my C10 trucks rear end. To do so, the head of each rivet is chiseled off and then punched free. Drum brakes are controlled by a wheel cylinder this transfers the hydraulc pressure of the brake fluid to mechanical pressure exerted on the brake shoes.
Once both sides are cut, the rear portion of the chassis is simply rolled back out of the way. Worst case senario is I have a concrete step running along the back of the garage wall I may have to notch it a little to make the truck fit perfect. The driveshaft will also have to be shortened before re-installation. Here, the cab mount and C-channel inner brace are both attached to the rear half of the frame. Next, the bed is removed.
Next we unbolted the two bolts that hold the trailing arms in place to the trailing arm cross-member and rolled out the whole thing in one piece. However because of the low production runs, finding an affordable short bed model in good shape seems to be going the way of the dodo bird. Back in the old days of pickup trucks, long beds were by far the most popular configuration. Part 6 of the long to short bed conversion on my 1970 Chevy C10. I suspect this will get a lot of hate either because of the Dallas Cowboys theme, the short bed conversion or both.
They even helped me out when it came time to cut my own 1968 Chevrolet C10 down from a long bed to short. Not only that in 96 they changed the engine to a Vortec head and intake system. By using this conversion kit, you will have everything needed to shorten your long bed frame with basic hand tools in your own garage. Replacing the dash is much easier than taking it out. I just finished taking my dash out an … d it took about two hours, with help.
In addition to his expertise writing about , , , and , Brett had spent several years running parts for local auto dealerships. Next mark, clamp, and drill out the rest on the mounting holes that are indexed on the No Limit frame rail through the stock frame. This would leave that section of the vehicle frame exposed on top along with your driveshaft, exhaust, and whatever else is mounted in that area. Out back, we need to trim 8 inches from the back of the frame and drill a handful of holes. The templates remain attached to the rear portion of the frame so that the second cut can be made. I then took the one out of the C10 and took the axles out and replaced all of the seals. Classic Industries offers 1967 Chevrolet Truck Truck Bed Components, 1967 Chevrolet Truck Stepside Bed Sides - Full, 1967 Chevrolet Truck Bed Sides - Partial, 1967 Chevrolet Truck Running Boards, 1967 Chevrolet Truck Side Steps, 1967 Chevrolet Truck Patch Panels, 1967 Chevrolet Truck Front Bed Panel, 1967 Chevrolet Truck Stake Pocket Repair Panel, 1967 Chevrolet Truck Bed Floor Panel, 1967 Chevrolet Truck Stepside Rear Fender, 1967 Chevrolet Truck Fiberglass Bed Side, and 1967 Chevrolet Truck Rear Bed Corner.
The Master Cylinder is bolted to the firewall in the engine bay. Also the frame of the vehicle is longer with the long bed. It shouldn't take too much longer, although it may reduce my budget a lot. I thought to myself well no wonder. Note that the two front holes from the original cab mount location are used to attach the inner brace. So here is my truck about 6 or 8 months ago. The kit does require welding to finish the conversion but with our steel inner braces, you will be able to safely transport the vehicle to a certified welder if needed.
So anyway I thought you all would like this picture of a 54 Chevy that I took a picture of at the local car show. It might be hard work, but shortening this Chevy C10 is well worth it. Run in the fasteners in to ensure that you get in tight fit then remove the rails to install the cross-members off the truck. Since the entire rear suspension setup will be moved forward 12 inches, the two-piece driveshaft will be removed and added to the scrap pile along with the rear brake line. These will serve as mounting points for the C-channel inner brace.
Next, the two frame halves are rejoined via the inner brace and welded together. We found that the simple way to install the rails was to locate the factory holes on the top and bottom of the stock frame just past the cab mount. Flush with the back of the framerail the template is used to transfer the location of the rear bed mount hole as well as to scribe the cutline. This Blog is designed to showcase my 1967 Chevrolet Pickup which was a C20 long bed. So i got it out and and well its huge. Seen this truck while out at the Trader's Village Swap meet in Grand Prairie Texas. I encourage all serious bidders come out and check out this C10 for yourself before purchase.