There are a lot of pieces that bolt in one way or another to an exhaust manifold stud. The same technique can be used to monitor other voltages, like the fuel pump power voltage. Luckily my local parts store had them in their bolt bin in grade 8, so I was good to go. I definitely would leave the other to a mechanic. The depth of the groove in the piston is less than the width of the ring. Many of Ford's vehicles were refreshed or redesigned for 1987, including the Mustang. Item Status Full gasket set Have Timing chain set Have Cam and lifters Have Rings Have Rod bearings Have Main bearings Have Freeze plug set Have Ford grey paint Have I took the engine and parts to the machine shop for a final inspection and cleaning.
The outside of the motor is getting a quick shot of Ford grey paint, the same as it had originally. The lifters dropped in mostly without incident, though one of the lifter bores had some gunk in it that needed to be cleaned out before the lifter would go in all the way. Trust me on that one. Its height and width were 72. So I call up and they're stumped too. The cam took a bit of persuasion to get started on coming out of the block, but once it got started moving forward in it's bearings, the rest came out quite easily. I also hooked up the smog pump tubing and hoses and connected the vacuum harness to the two diverter valves for the smog pump.
I'm sure there's a logical reason to it, I've just never looked into it. Otherwise you could get a short circuit and a car fire. The Blue Oval's full-size pickup hit the late 1980s with a sleeker, more aerodynamic exterior design, anti-lock brakes for the first time, a lineup of fuel-injected engines and numerous minor upgrades and enhancements. No problems showed up here - so far so good. The Mustang received aerodynamic headlamps, and a new quad-shock rear-axle suspension. In the middle of this, my luck struck again - at some point while the engine was torn apart, I managed to loose the bolts for the pressure plate. The heads had been briefly sandblasted also, and after a final blowing off with compressed air, they were ready for paint as well.
Next up was the fuel rail and injectors. Price was a bit more than I could get mail order, but the quality seemed comparable and he was willing to not make me buy the ring set if they didn't fit, so I went for it. The four-speed electronically controlled automatic overdrive transmission, which replaced the C6 three-speed automatic transmission starting in late 1989, was now the standard for all 1990 trucks. Since I was in there, I might as well do it, right? Then they call back again when the work is all done to tell you to come get your pile of clean and freshly machined parts. The hope was that they would not find anything major and I could re-use the existing pistons and pins without needing to remove and re-hang them on the rods, that the rods would not need to be resized, the crank would be fine, and the block would not need to be bored. I then used a brass drift and a brass hammer to drive the lifters out of the top of their bores - in theory, the brass is soft enough that it won't scratch the lifter bores. I also had to shuffle some of the misc bits bolted to the exhaust manifolds to get the passenger's side brace for the upper intake installed properly.
The rods were stamped presumably from the factory? I neglected to get any pictures with the rotating assembly installed before the various other parts went on, oh well. I pulled the timing chain and gears to make it easier to spin the motor around, and I pulled the oil pump and pickup assembly to get better access to the bottom end. About 40 mph, flat ground. What potential problem would that likely indicate? Sometimes that can provide a clue. I had installed it into the intake manifold on the driver's side, but apparently it only goes there on the 5. The machine shop also disassembled the heads and magnafluxed everything to make sure nothing was cracked - and everything was sound. I also got the passenger's side front accessories and the associated bracketry installed at this time - smog pump, alternator, and the belt tensioner.
Ya, it all mathematically makes sense. Next up was the lower intake manifold and the valve covers - basically enough to get the engine roughly sealed up. They won't fit between the motor and the engine stand, so you need to install these after the engine is off the stand. After that I can do the final hookups and see about firing things up. Suffice to say it went well and I got eight clean and reconditioned injectors to put into the motor. Inside were six-way adjustable sport seats with lumbar controls and a console between them. It sure was gross to clean up.
That volt meter is very intriguing. This engine was supposedly a good running engine when the was rolled, but before I stuck it in the I wanted to verify all was well - removing and installing an engine is a non-trivial exercise. A few rounds of that got most of it off without major trauma. And the truck does start right back up after stalling. Inside, a new dash and instrument panel were installed. Exterior cargo maximum width 65. Along the way, I found out that the smog gear that installs over top of the driver's side valve cover is slightly different for the 1987 vs.
The local Ford dealer was about as useless as they come - the rings are a discontinued item and they can't even guarantee they will fit. I checked the box of rings to decipher the label to be sure it's a standard ring set aka, someone didn't toss the wrong item into my shipping box and that's all good. At this point we ran out of working time for the day and had to call it a night, so I taped up the openings in the intake both the center air flow area and the injector ports and carefully set aside the parts I had dug up from the far reaches of my garage so it would be easy to do the next pieces of assembly. Using screwdrivers as scrapers, we gently removed as much as we could and vacuumed up the rest. So, the innards of the engine seemed to agree with the seller's story about the engine condition, which was good news.
Figuring out where all of the intake bolts went was a bit of a chore, and after some futzing about, I'm pretty sure I got them right there are two length studs plus regular bolts, and they all need to be in the correct places , but we'll find out later on if I got that right or not. I checked the specs on the rings the internet is a wonderful tool at times and they're for the right application - they fit pretty much every Ford 5. First up was the oil pan and the heads. Fuel economy city 20 mpg Load floor height 34. The plan was to paint the pieces first, then clean out all of the passages of any remaining machining dust, then re-oil the insides, and finally, assemble the motor. You typically get to see very little of this anyway, so it's no big deal. Guess which one I had grabbed and installed earlier? We are going to help you to get articles 87 F 150 Gvw Curb Weight Update Ford Truck you're looking at some of our content which might be suitable as you are looking for the material.