. There should be 12+ volts read. And think of all the money you've saved by working on your own car! Turn it and open, if it has never been opened, there should be fuse puller black located inside. Make sure all connections are tight, check fuses, make sure the cap and rotor are in good shape and the wires are properly connected. The fact that my car is turning over means it can't be locked up right?? The 2nd is under your hood. Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result.
I have already reviewed some of the vids u identified. Bad spark plugs usually makes the coil go bad and make sure to change them when servicing the distributor including plug wires, cap and rotors. I have done the following: checked for voltage at the 2 igniter wires and for continuity at the other. Don't be discouraged when this happens. If the coil and igniter check out as good, then replace the distributor.
If it stays on, either the main relay or ecu computer is bad and you can find that if you have a code. Go over all electrical connections inside the distributor. Was checking the car for a poor idling condition. Next time it doesn't start just sit there with it for a while and see it the relay will do its job or not. I checked the ground and it seems to be good.
Also I had added some videos that you need to review in order to move in the right direction. All the voltages and ohms are as required. Clean all connections and ensure the female connectors are tight--crimp with needle nose pliers, if necessary. Before replacing it I would sit there and wait for it to click to prime the fuel pump so it would start. Do you have bright white spark at all four plugs? I think it might be behind the battery.
The best way to not get messed up is to do one wire at a time. Spark plugs have less than 20K miles on them. There may be a decal under your hood that gives this info. Clean all connections and ensure the female connectors are tight--crimp with needle nose pliers, if necessary. I have replaced the whole distributor unit cap,rotor,ignitor,coil and distributor.
If you don't have power at the coil check the fuse in the under dash panel for the ignition. You don't want to get the wires mixed up. Since you probably don't have access to a proper fuel pressure meter, you'll have to use your intuition. Replace the plug at the specified interval, or if the center electrode is rounded A. One of those brands was original equipment. If it doesn't, the timing belt broke.
Car drove last night 4. When this happens, replace the sensors too or the complete distributor. The 1994 Civic values are 11. I'm really at a lost to explain why it doesn't. An ignition coil can check good with an ohm meter; but, have defects which show up when the voltage builds to thousands of volts at sparking time. My inclination is that the Backup Radio fuse is blown but you say the fuses are good. It has plenty of gas but it won't get any spark.
Disconnect battery negative terminal everytime you work any electrical component. The check engine light does not flash to indicate a trouble. When the Main Relay Goes Bad A bad fuel pump causes a sputtering type of stall, not an out-and-out lack of spark. Make sure you have 12 volts going to the coil on the positive side with key on. However, the quickest way to check if the main relay is working is to watch the dash engine service light. Different spark plugs manufacturers may have different gap recommendations.